The town of Thunder Bay, a deepwater port, is the location of Fort William, where Morrisseau went to 4 years of residential school. Before returning to the Reserve. Photographed at sunset, from the town, looking across the bay, is the large hill rock formation non-Indians call "the sleeping giant."

A local painter, Dominique, has captured the contours better than the photographer. Ojibwe people know that this giant is Nanabozho, culture hero, trickster, creator, Manitou -- and sometimes clown or no-good bum, too. After the last of his great deeds in the time when it was different -- animals could talk and such -- Nanabozho lay down here to sleep, but might awaken if he is really needed.

This geology is a sign of how deeply Anishinaabeg cultural history permeates the countryside where Morrisseau grew up. Midewiwin ceremonies were held in spring near where his grandparents lived. Before the Indian population had been so reduced by the white man's diseases, in spring huge quantities of giant sturgeon were caught -- enough to support thousands of people encamped for weeks of ceremonies. On rocks by lakes and rivers are countless petroglyphs, whose meanings no one now can be sure of. The land and water all spoke to Morrisseau, in very ancient voices, as he was growing up here.